You might check with your local inspections or code enforcement department. Other than that, keep the paint out of the box and off the meter itself. Also be aware that all latches, tamper seals and doors need to remain in working condition so the boxes can be easily opened if needed.

The main source of power that the smoke detectors need is 110 volts. The batteries in your smoke detectors are only for back up during a power failure. The “ten-year” lithium battery claim, I believe, has to do with the ability of the battery to store its charge. It’s the “shelf life,” so to speak. A standard battery, on a shelf, “dies” after a couple of years. The lithium can go longer, hence the ten-year claim. When you use any battery, even the lithium, it drains their capacity. The smoke detectors were constantly being powered from the battery and not the 110-volt circuit as they were designed for.

Trial and error: 1) Shut off the breaker; 2) Make a list of everything that is now dead (i.e., everything on the circuit); 3) Remove one receptacle, carefully recording all the connections and then disconnecting all the wires. To minimize the iterations, start with the one closest to the panel. For any receptacle with only one pair of wires, don’t bother; 4) Turn the breaker back on and test all the remaining receptacles on the circuit. If they are all now dead, then you have found the first receptacle. If not, select one of the receptacles still live and try again.
Note that in some older houses, there may be more than one “first” receptacle on a circuit, since the receptacles may not be wired in a daisy chain. The worst case is that all the receptacles are “first”.

No, it’s best if you bring in the old breaker and match it up. If you know the name of the brand of service box, we could also match it that way.

Usually the problem is simply an overload and you only need to run fewer appliances on the circuit. However, if it is not overloaded and it keeps tripping, you should suspect a short. Also, look for a defective cord, socket, or plug.

The answer is no. They are designed to blow at certain levels to protect equipment and for fire safety. Breakers and fuses are, in almost all instances, matched to the appropriate wire usage.

The start and end locations will use a three-way switch and the center location will need a four-way switch.

You will need a three-way switch at each location. A three-way switch will have three terminal screws on it.

It identifies the outlet as a 20-amp grounded receptacle and it should be used only on 20 amp circuits.